Top Rope Solo Devices. ) Because both halves are pivoting in relation to each other i
) Because both halves are pivoting in relation to each other it means the ‘biner can only be attached to one half (one side) of the device. May 3, 2022 · There is also a scenario in which having two devices on a single rope (tandem set-up) can see both devices fail if the top device fails to lock, perhaps due to being grabbed, which then pushes the lower device down the rope. My intended use of the device is the same as what I use a Trax for - top rope solo. However afaik it's made for lead rope solo, so a different use case from yours. Not sure how the difference in sheave diameter will play out in my intended use of the device. Feb 21, 2024 · 48 likes, 3 comments - sicgrips on February 21, 2024: "Trango Vergo for lead and top rope solo. Make sure the devices’ cams are properly locked onto the rope—inattention at this step is the most common cause of self-belay failure. It's a very effective way to work the moves on your project for as long as you want without having to drag a belayer along. Mar 6, 2019 · So I see the Spoc as being lighter, more efficient and can handle skinnier ropes while maintaining the same strength. But the El Mudo is there for some climbe Apr 26, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Ascension ascender facing away from me, clipped through top loop (capturing the rope) - also clipped to the belay loop with an oval carabiner. Your concern over the pull tab is easy to address, cut the loop into two strands. Jul 17, 2025 · The Petzl Grigri, for example, is a widely recommended lead rope solo device, but Petzl insists that the Grigri is not designed or tested for self-belay. Aug 14, 2018 · When rope soloing, you are only attached to the rope via your solo device, so if you fell and your solo device failed, there is a possibility you could slide completely out the system and off the end of your rope. Solid anchor on two trees, simple climb, thus allowing me to just drag in the slack along the way, in essence reversing the rapell down. Feb 27, 2023 · Use a locking draw to extend the upper or lower device if you want, the options are limitless, but an extremely simple two device setup that only adds maybe 30 seconds of faff per lap is extremely simple to implement and ought to be considered the standard of top rope soloing. (The Lov2 use a rocker-arm inside the device to pinch and lock the rope. If you fall hard on them, you run the risk of shearing the sheath of your rope. It is a great pleasure to share our knowledge on Lead Rope Solo with all of you. Jan 20, 2014 · Petzl recommends always using two different devices to maximize the benefit of the backup. The bottom line is: use a backup! (not the Kong Back-Up). Learn how to set up properly, choose the right gear, and climb confidently without a partner. Most other ABDs have the ‘biner connecting to both halves of the device which is inherently stronger. I just had my first solo top rope send, using a basic rapell setup with a normal brake and prusik, on my dynamic rope. Two micro-traxions or a micro-traxion and an ascender down below works really well. An image from an article on toprope solo climbing from Petzl. Yes they are pricey but breaking both ankles can cost a bit . We decided to give you some bonuses with the LRS course because we think a lot of the material in our TRS course is solid as a base to Rope solo. Feb 3, 2022 · In this way, a rope solo climb is the opposite of a partner-belayed climb. Feb 10, 2011 · Anyone wishing to rope solo should already have extensive knowledge of all the systems and equipment needed, as well as a sound knowledge of themselves, their limits, and the reality of making a mistake. That way they can't get caught on a biner. We prefer to use the grabbiest possible device that we can still coax into auto-feeding because they will engage most reliably in a fall while allowing us to climb relatively unencumbered. And as with most all soloing devices, the device/rope pairing is critical and can have a big impact on performance This video explains a nice discovery I made using both devices for top rope solo. Petzl does not approve using any of their devices for lead rope solo. I would be super heartbroken if this happened to my buddy who swears on using a Shunt for TR Solo. I’ve just posted my latest setup and tests with the Vergo for both lead rope solo and TRS. Jun 27, 2012 · Solo Top Rope Self Belay Advice Some progress capture pulleys and ascenders can be rigged to travel along a fixed line providing a self-belay for a solo top rope climbing experience. i have used a shunt in the past but wondered what people are using these days? Dec 27, 2022 · Super solid pulley. I already have a Petzl Basic (toothed ascender) as a backup. Sep 15, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. performed alone without a climbing partner), but unlike free solo climbing, which is also performed alone and with no climbing protection whatsoever, the rope-solo climber uses a mechanical self-belay device and rope system, which enables them to use the 1 day ago · Crossload prevention in top rope soloing isn’t for the fear of breaking carabiners. There's a lot of good info spread across MP forums, but figured i'd consolidate and put together an Instructable for anyone else interested in making one themselves. Y May 2, 2018 · The setup, the process, and tips for toprope soloing (TR solo). Oct 12, 2021 · A Quick and Dirty Example for Top Rope Soloing by P. Try it and let me know if it works for you!Also to get a complete course on Sep 30, 2022 · See the lead rope solo facebook group for discussions. The following characteristics are essential for any self-belay system: Apr 8, 2017 · Ultimately I'm going to be lapping solo top rope very many times over the course of several months, so I really want a toothless primary device so my sheathing doesn't get chewed up after continuous use (and inevitably occasional falls). u2028u2028Bottom line: Don’t rope solo. Feeds great and lets you lower easily. The only deviced made for lead soloing (Silent Partner, Soloist) are out of production, so you are stuck going against the manufacturers recommendations. Falling with slack in your system will significantly increase the forces that these devices put on your rope, which can result in the de-sheathing of your And the extension ensures that the devices don’t somehow release one another. Jun 10, 2024 · We review the Top Rope Solo Neck Lanyard from Avant Climbing Innovations, a device that improves the efficiency and safety of TR soloing setups Rope-solo climbing or rope-soloing (or self-belaying) is a form of solo climbing (i. One thing you might consider if you want to be extra safe is placing one of your devices on the harness tie-in points instead of the belay loop, passing a carabiner/quicklink through them. The myth: "teeth are bad and will damage your rope when top rope soloing"!!! People talk about teeth, smooth and ridges ONLY dynamic drop tests, static p Jan 14, 2023 · It is a single rope device, unlike the shunt. Petzl has not developed a device for this activity, but certain ascenders may be used for it by experts. However, they are significantly more clunky. The elastic cord keeps the devices from interfering with each other and the set up works great. This is pretty identical to the Petzl Microtraxion, but cheaper and lighter. It is a shame the Soloist and the Silent Partner are no longer in production. Mar 5, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Again, tons of people use toothed devices and have been fine, the device you use is less important than how you use it. A climber in CA fell while top-rope soloing, due to not having a back-up device and the position of his body keeping his only device disengaged as he fell. This style of failure would be most easily demonstrated by tandem rocker devices. Normally, when following a pitch, the climber’s connection to the rope (their tie-in knot) stays at the end of the rope, so the slack in the rope is pulled up and managed by a separate belayer and belay device as the follower moves. Embrace the purity of top rope climbing. 5 and 11mm in diameter but meets different standards depending on the rope thickness. Both are really good for toproping, because they require little weight on the rope to work. It can probably be used for top rope solo setups (new TIBLOC only) if used in conjunction with a reliable primary device. Is the failure mode you mention tipping upside down and the rope pulling through the shunt? If so I think the risk is a bit overblown-if you are tipping upside down whilst shunting you are definitely pushing the envelope! All devices will have vulnerabilities. Test, practice and be safe. My questions are what do you guys think?? Jun 15, 2012 · If you want a new way to train or work your latest project without the inconvenience of a partner, try solo toproping. I used it for some weeks on my " Ever wanted to climb solo but still stay safe? In this video, I take you through my full Top Rope Solo climbing setup, gear selection and self-belay system. Nov 19, 2024 · What are people's go to top rope solo devices/methods these days. A quick scroll through and You'll find every possible variety of rig and discussion of advantages and disadvantages of each. Top Rope Soloing is the simplest form of rope soloing. Aug 13, 2024 · The TAZ LOV3 The LOV3 is a belay device that works with ropes between 9. It is there to ensure that if the top device fails, the bottom device will catch the climber. Simard Other than the typical anchor set-up and personal climbing gear the following demonstration is done with the use of: 1) uAscend from Grandwall equipment (Main belay device) 2) Micro Traxion from Petzl (Back-up belay device) 3) Rappel deviceImportant note: Usi Feb 10, 2011 · Anyone wishing to rope solo should already have extensive knowledge of all the systems and equipment needed, as well as a sound knowledge of themselves, their limits, and the reality of making a mistake. Top rope solo systems rely on progress capture rope grabs, which allow rope to pass easily through one direction and stop rope from going the other. How it works: Your primary device (the top microtrax bears) the weight of your fall, and the elastic lanyard keeps it separated Top device held up by a neck bungee. The second device is on the rope for redundancy. The lead solo devices: The devices mentioned in the lead section can serve top roping purposes. For top rope solo I used a Micro Traxion and a Kong Duck on separate lines (yes I fixated both strands it the top from seperate bolts). Designed to set new standards in speed, performance, and safety, SULU GO is engineered to support the ambitions of the bold climber. It is designed in a different way and meets demands for top rope solo climbers. Read the full article on to Feb 27, 2023 · In this edition of your monthly dose of Accidents in North American Climbing, we cover a top-rope solo fall. Subjects include: general principles, devices-specific recommendations, suggested knots, belay anchors, self rescue and Top rope (“TR”) soloing is an advanced style of climbing in which a climber uses ascending devices on a fixed rope to climb a pitch without the need for a belayer to manage slack. This form of soloing predominantly shines on single pitch climbing but can be used if there's a fixed line on a multipitch. Make sure your rope is protected over sharp edges. It is the climber’s connection to the rope which moves with the climber, and the I've tried many different Top Rope Solo configurations, but this is by far the best for me right now. Sep 21, 2021 · Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. The Duck is a "Rope Clamp" without aggressive teeth, which will make it less likely to strip your rope. Versatile Climbing Techniques: Suitable for Lead Rope climbing, Top Rope/Moulinette, Top Rope Solo. Solo toproping is not rocket science—the techniques are straightforward, and the only special gear you need is a belay device. Read the full accident analysis here. The following parts do not cover specific devices, but rather the qualities of different types of devices, including eccentric, rocker, lever, wedge, as well as Assisted Breaking Devices (ABD), Belay Assist, and non-mechanical. Moreover, assisted breaking devices are not meant for catching a fall without the brake end of the rope being held. Oct 15, 2021 · An advanced climbing technique, top rope solo climbing requires you to self-belay and removes the participation of a climbing partner, who would normally belay you or otherwise assist you as you climb. It’s to ensure smooth, predictable autofeeding so your backup device stays correctly oriented and doesn’t interrupt the system. Unlike with an ascender, you would have to manually feed rope through it while climbing. In TR soloing, this is all reversed. Well that device is now here - it’s the TAZ Lov2. Two micro traxions, shunt, gri gri (must be annoying to always tighten the rope). Jun 18, 2020 · Thursday, June 18, 2020 Taz Lov2 for Top Rope Soloing - A Review The holy grail of TRS devices would be a device that allows me to freely climb with no slack build-up; be able to quickly lock-up when needed; and be able to rap whenever I desire without having to switch devices. Feb 27, 2021 · A Microtrax should NEVER EVER be used for protection in a lead rope solo set up. Each device will provide a different balance between auto-feeding and grabbiness. In this video I do a first ascent of an undeveloped crag with a top rope solo setup. When toprope soloing right off the ground or at the start of a long pitch when there isn’t much excess rope, clip a water bottle or extra gear to the lead line on a clove hitch, then pull it up at the next available stance when Moved Permanently The document has moved here. After some consideration I went for a grigri with chest harness (to keep it oriented right) as a main device and a Petzl ASAP as backup for the lead solos. Y I am thinking about starting to top rope soloing on one of my projects, and I see so many opinions on the best way to do this. e. The Cinch or other Grigri like devices are popular but tend to require to much fiddling to get the rope to feed for my taste. i feel the grigri is being pulled downward. El Mudo is gaining international recognition, not only for being the only commercially available device/system but also for its design, which is fundamentally intended for Rope Solo Climbing—whether in Top Rope Solo (TRS) or Lead Rope Solo (LRS). how do you deal with this? Aug 14, 2018 · When rope soloing, you are only attached to the rope via your solo device, so if you fell and your solo device failed, there is a possibility you could slide completely out the system and off the end of your rope. I must say that it was a bit scary at first. Designed to manage device orientation, reduce interference, and integrate cleanly with common TRS devices. Not my choice though. Jun 18, 2025 · Top rope solo climbing requires specific equipment and safety precautions. Aug 25, 2022 · The excess hanging rope should provide a bit of weight to keep the cord straight and the devices moving smoothly. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, attach the two devices to the rope, one above the other. Solo Top Roping is a great way to get a lot of laps in and have a positive training day when you can’t find a partner, or are just looking for some solitude. A pair of Roll'n'lock, Kong Duck, Microtrax or other progression pulley devices without aggressive tooth action is where most people end up for toprope soloing. Enhance your top rope solo climbing safety and efficiency with our Universal Top Rope Solo Neck Lanyard—professionally designed for seamless compatibility with all devices and tailored for comfort, it eliminates the DIY hassle, ensuring a perfect fit for every climber on fixed line top roping or fix-and-follow multipitch climbing. I simply tie alpine butterfly loops in my rope every 6' or so from the anchor to the ground. While a toothed device may sheath your rope, there have been reports of non toothed devices chopping a rope completely in half, and also reports of prusiks melting through the sheath of ropes leaving them stiff to touch. All rope grabs presented in this video can fail if they get caught between the climber's legs closed tight. . I have a short piece of Dynamic climbing rope tied to my harness with locking carabiners at both ends. Also the creator has a facebook page with videos of the device in use. Apr 23, 2023 · The shunt and ascender were never designed for top rope solo or lead rope solo, one of the best bit of kit I've seen on the market so far that works really well for top rope solo is the Taz Love 2 and 3 as they are rated for progress capture, ascent and descent. We include many break tests so we don't Nevertheless, fixed-rope solo climbing is an option that un number of climbers have taken, experimenting with a variety of technical solutions. Aug 20, 2020 · A very unique design. The self-belay device on the climber arrests the falls, not by one at the ground or anchor. What?s not to like? Aug 16, 2022 · It is generally easier system to set up though rope pairing is critical for good feed and lock up There’s nuances to everything stated here - it’s not cut and dried or black/white. It is important that these devices feed smoothly without allowing the accumulation of slack. Jun 9, 2015 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Ever wanted to climb solo but still stay safe? In this video, I take you through my full Top Rope Solo climbing setup, gear selection and self-belay system. Its specialized engineering and full stainless-steel construction make it Brent Barghahn from Avant Climbing shows us his favorite Top Rope Solo systems and why he chose the devices he did. Jul 14, 2022 · The following is part one of another chunk on my On the Line book, covering the tricky topic of top rope soloing (TRS). We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Weight: 328 gr. Feb 12, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Adaptable and Shareable: The adjustable nec Apr 15, 2024 · The Revo is a relatively well known self-belay device in rope solo circles that is used as a poor man’s Silent Partner - that is, a bi-directional feed device that operates on the basis of centrifugal force/speed lock to stop rope feed. The only use for a MT (for lead rope solo) is to manage a cache loop so the primary device feeds smoothly. The Petzl GriGri+, in top rope mode, is our preferred device. Mar 6, 2025 · We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Here’s how I top-rope solo with a GriGri. Definitely not the safest, but on easy terrain it’s probably fine. May 27, 2019 · I would not recommend using an assisted braking device such as the GriGri or Vergo for top-rope soloing. I top rope solo (pretty new to climbing) and i usually just use my grigri, but i've found that anchoring or weighting the rope makes it weird to pull the rope through while climbing. - A myste This climbing device is like no other. TR soloing is a great way to get in quick sessions, put in more laps, keeping warm on cold days, or when you're following a pitch and then hauling up a backpack. Oct 10, 2020 · Take a look at the "Top Rope Solo" group on facebook. For top rope solo a trax primary is fine. Sep 6, 2024 · Top Rope Solo Pack List The top rope solo pack lists for a day out alone include the following: 2 progress capturing devices on locking carabiners with anti-cross load features Neck Lanyard PAS for anchor transitions Ascender for mid-route transitions Rappel devices both for single-line and double-line rappelling. Make sure your system is well thought out and worry less about which device you are using, they all work in a similar way. Covered are some tips when looking at sending a new line when going on a Moved Permanently The document has moved here. What is Top Rope Soloing? In this video we go over the top rope solo system that professional big wall climber Jordan Cannon uses. Another good device option is the vergo. Dec 3, 2024 · In this episode Fiona looks at two rope solo accident reports 3 climbing accident reports: - A sling jams open the device causing a 30 foot fall. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. CF#3 - Top Rope Solo Device Failure - #Climbing #Focus #Podcast #tips #howto What's the Best Personal Anchor System | Five different systems and how to use them What are two different non-toothed devices (that do not require managing slack) that can be used to top rope solo. The main advantages are the ease of feed and the ability to catch head first falls. It is certified across the full range as a “manual locking assist device according to EN 15151-1”. Feb 27, 2023 · In this edition of your monthly dose of Accidents in North American Climbing, we cover a top-rope solo fall. I know there are some convenient features of the Shunt compared to other devices, but it doesn't seem worth it considering the increased risk. Universal-fit neck lanyard for top rope solo systems. However, lots of people go with a single device and tie a single backup knot in rope. Discover Effortless Top Rope Solo Climbing with Avant Climbing Innovations' Universal Neck Lanyard Designed for all climber sizes and device types, this lanyard brings simplicity and safety to your fixed line top roping or fix-and-follow multipitch outings. With all the extra rope management required, lead rope soloing is most common among aid climbers, who can rest on their personal anchor systems clipped directly to protection to adjust the Microtrax on top with elastic cord to keep it elevated - clipped to belay loop to oval carabiner. For the backup slip-knot, if you are worried that it might come undone, you can also clip a carabiner through the s The Sulu Go is a new play device from Italy. Discover Effortless Top Rope Solo Climbing with Our Universal Neck Lanyard Designed for all climber sizes and device types, this lanyard brings simplicity and safety to your fixed line top roping or fix-and-follow multipitch outings. Bought it for use as an emergency ascender, but also for my top rope solo kit. I’ve heard that toothed devices… I mainly top rope solo sustained, thin, and slabby climbs so stopping to manually feed the slack through does not make for a smooth climb. Dec 8, 2012 · The next step in my top rope solo evolution was to use NO device.